Pacific Crest Trail

Bedazzled and I awoke to the sounds of Highway 80 as we packed up our cowboy camp. The sun was still below the horizon and the trees stood tall waiting for the first light. We, however, had some walking to do and headed out of camp toward the highway. We soon passed Olaf who had shared our campsite. She looked stiff and was hobbling up the trail.

The morning mist blushed orange under the sun’s first rays and the birds flitted between the trees. Mornings in NorCal are turning out to be not so bad. Photographically, it has been hard to find a view thay isn’t blocked, but the sun filtering through the trees is still nice to watch.

We had a nice short stay in South Lake Tahoe. The trail in and out was mostly snow free and we made good time coming in and out. Unfortunately, the town was spread out, and we did a lot of walking to accomplish all of our chores. I bought Bedazzled a strawberry shake to celebrate finishing the Sierra.

Our cowboy camp turned out to be a windy affair. The gusts just kept coming and neither Bedazzled or I were able to sleep much. We did, however, get a fantastic view of the night sky and Milky Way.

I tossed and turned and couldn’t sleep at all night. Searching for a reprieve from the boredom of laying in my tent, I decided to step outside. The Milky Way hung over my head and I felt as if I could reach up and touch it.

Kennedy Meadows served as a place of preparation for those getting ready to cross the Sierra. They could plan and provision for their journey or rest after coming back from a crossing. Today, it’s guests are mainly looking for a little rest and relaxation in one of their cabins or campgrounds. But there are still a few who have come through those snowy mountains and seek a short reprieve from their journey north. We call them thru-hikers.

Today we were aiming to get to Sonora Pass. The end of the Sierra and supposedly the end of the hardest rivers and passes. While we have loved the snow covered mountains and beautiful high passes, we were ready to have dry feet and not deal with swollen raging rivers.

1,000 Miles! It feels amazing to hit this mile marker.

The river was still raging when we woke at our impromptu campsite. Still recovering from the hellish day that was yesterday, we packed up and moved on quickly. We wanted to make it to Kerrick Creek before the water had a chance to rise.

I unzipped my rain fly to find a buck grazing near the river not 50 feet from my tent. The Matterhorn River snaked through the canyon floor and the pine trees stood by silently as morning mist hung in the air.

It was rough getting up today as I didn’t sleep very well. Nevertheless, I changed clothes and emerged from my tent to a silent camp.

I awoke in the hushed predawn silence and quietly packed up my gear. The trees stood tall and the mountains taller as Bedazzled and I sat silently eating our breakfast. It was 5:40 and we were supposed to leave at 5:30.

We left Mammoth with reluctant hearts and heavy footsteps. Mike and Vanessa had generously taken us in for 4 nights and let us crash their vacation in Mammoth.

I awoke to sunlight on my tent. It was a strange feeling to wake up when the stars aren’t still strung out over the night sky. After a moment, it all came back to me. An agreement around a smokey fire to sleep in and take the time to make oatmeal and coffee in the morning. To take time to feel civilized again.

We woke up at our lovely campsite overlooking a valley full of pine trees and a sequoia. Though lovely, we were missing the snow covered mountains we had been walking through for the last 8 days.

I wanted to address the fear mongering that has plagued the Sierra this year. Since 2017 was a record breaking year for snow fall, with some areas receiving 200% above average accumulation, the Sierra have quite naturally been the talk of the trail.

Close your eyes and imagine a dark stone hut built in 1930. It’s fire place has been stoned walled and there is only one window, which can’t be opened. Now imagine 12 hikers who have just eaten two week old salami, ramen, and peanut butter. Delicious and caloric? Yes. But more importantly, a master recipe for cutting the cheese, letting one slide or as some more civilized people would say, passing gas.

The Middle Fork of the Kings was still raging beneath our tents, and I slept through my alarm waking up 30 minutes late, but I still was ready before Vipr :-p.

The Sierra is a magical place this time of year. Winter above 10,000 feet and summer below. Today, I was lucky enough to walk from winter into summer.

I put warm feet into wet socks, then into wet shoes, and stepped on wet ground. A lovely way to start the morning. At least I was in the middle of the snowy Sierra, whose beauty is a salve to almost any aliment.

My crampons bit into firm snow as I left the campsite and started the trek up to Kearsarge in morning twilight. Vipr, Bedazzled, and Fun Dip followed behind. There has been a lot of attrition in the Sierra with most hikers skipping up to Northern California or quiting the trail all together.

A little too much socializing last night led to the decision to sleep in and wake up at 6:30. In the morning, our first steps on the surrounding snow led to an oh shit moment where we all realized our mistake. Unlike the previous nights, the snow didn’t freeze over. If it was already a little slushy this early, we could only imagine how it would be in the afternoon.

We woke up on our little island of dirt among a sea of snow. The sounds of Tyndall Creek could be heard from almost a .5 mile away as we slowly packed up our gear and took our first steps on the firm snow. Today was the day we would cross Forester Pass, the highest point on the PCT.