Mile 926 to 945.

I awoke in the hushed predawn silence and quietly packed up my gear. The trees stood tall and the mountains taller as Bedazzled and I sat silently eating our breakfast. It was 5:40 and we were supposed to leave at 5:30.

The early morning chill was finally too much to stand and Bedazzled and I left camp as Vipr slowly took down her tent with Fun Dip waiting at her side.

Soon we were among the boulders and pines dodging around patches of snow. The sky behind us ripened like a Georgia peach as we stole glances over our shoulders. We stopped long enough to soak in the view of a lake circled with receding mountains. We smiled at each other happy to experience this beautiful sunrise. It sure beat waiting around camp.

The trail quickly became buried under snow and we followed intermittent footprints. Donahue Pass at 11,000 feet rose on the horizon. I keep thinking we have kissed the snow capped mountains goodbye, but I keep being pleasantly surprised. I love the winter scenery.

We found water just before the top of the pass and both fill up. A lone hiker named Chopsticks approaches through the sun cupped snow, but we head off before she arrived.

We reach the top of the pass easily and in good time. We made tea and hot cocoa and then head to a ridge to watch the other hikers approach below. They looked like tiny ants marching in a line.

Vipr and Fun Dip arrived a bit later, but found out they had cell service and wete engrossed in their phones when Bedazzled and I carried on. It was only 8:00 and we were feeling strong.

Descending the otherside of the pass, we got in at least three good glissades, which are perhaps the final ones of the trip. Bedazzled ended up in the bushes on the second, but wasn’t hurt.

When we were about to start the third glissade, a hiker trailing us yelled and held something up. We both thought we had everything and continued to slide down. At the bottom we waited and the hiker yelled again. This time we can make out what she is saying. Peanut butter. One of Bedazzled’s peanut butters came out of her side pocket.

With the peanut butter safely retrieved, we begin a long rock scramble down. Bedazzled got separated from me and when she came down, she said, “I wish you were there to record that.” “What,” I ask. “I just fell down a stream head first on my back. I thought I was going to die!” She was laughing as she said it so I was relieved she wasn’t hurt.

We carried on dropping elevation and soon we came upon a view of Lyell Canyon below us. It was carpeted with an idyllic meadow of the richest green and the Lyell Fork snaked lazily down its center. It was prettier than a postcard, and we descended with quick steps eager to be in the little slice of heaven.

When we reached the meadow, we found a large shade tree and stripped to our underwear. Then we swam across the cold river.

It felt good once we were drying out on the opposite bank, but we needed some time in the sun before we could cross back.

Eventually, members of the big group started to trickle by and finally Vipr and Fun Dip came into view. They called out that the wanted to do three more miles before lunch. Surprised they would pass on such a choice location, we eventually packed up and started down the trail. We found them in a mile unpacked and sitting under a tree. They didn’t make it very far. The beauty of Lyell Canyon had won them over.

After a relaxing lunch, we carried on. The trail was a very gradual downhill and we covered the ground quickly. My legs remembered the days of 25+ miles in the desert and were ready for their return. We passed tranquil scenes of deer feeding in the meadow and birds and butterflies flying to and fro. As we made progress, the number of JMT hikers increased. Yosemite is the starting point for south bound hikers. It is funny because JMT hikers often ask whether you are a PCT or JMT hiker. Asking that question is a dead give away that you are a JMT hiker. PCTers can spot  JMTers from a mile away. Their shiny unused gear, huge packs, shaved faces, and still stylish hairdos are a dead give away.

At some point, Bedazzled and I pulled away from Vipr and Fun Dip. We would go for a while and then wait, but after waiting for 20 mintues one time and no one showing up, we decided to keep moving. Earlier in the day, Vipr mentioned her shoulder strap was bothering her and Fun Dip had been dragging all day. We figured today just wasn’t their day and gave up hope of hiking in a group.

When we got to a potentially tricky ford late in the day, we decided to wait until the rest of the group showed up. Vipr and Fun Dip along with some of the big group came along after a bit. Upon arrival, Fun Dip declared that they weren’t going to go to the Tuolumne River like we had planned, but stop earlier. Her feet were killing her and Vipr’s shoulder pain was getting worse. Bedazzled and I still felt strong, but we decided to go only as far as the others could.

The ford was easier than expected and we had a scenic 1.5 miles to the camping spot, which was along a river with a wide meadow on the oppsite bank. The views were nice, but the mosquitoes were swarming and Vipr and Fun Dip ate their dinners in the safety of their tents. Bedazzled and I put on our rain gear and head nets and watched a beautiful sunset  complete with grazing deer, pink clouds, and silloheted trees.

Upon returning to my tent, I murdered all the little bloodsuckers that sneaked in.

My first day in Yosemite has been a beautiful one. If you are looking for a place of serene tranquility, this may be it. Just make sure you get off the beaten path and into the backcountry. There is still peace and quiet to be found here.