East Fork of Dougherty Creek to Palisades Lake
I woke up 30 minutes later than normal and took my time getting ready, but I was still walking by 6:15. If yesterday was any indication, today was going to be a hot one.
The trail, which was well established and maintained yesterday, would present some challenges right off the bat. It was badly eroded in parts and would often peter out. In other sections, it was hard to tell what was erosion and what was the “trail.” It certainly made me pay attention and after initial annoyance it was fun looking for clues like footprints, drainage work, and cleared trees to help navigate.
I reached a high point of 9.9k and then immediately descended down to 6,000 ft to meet the Middle Fork of the Kings River at Simpson Meadow.
The trail turned north-easterly, and I followed it for the next 8.5 miles. The valley carved by this mighty river was lined on either side with High Sierra peaks. As I moved along the trail, it was overgrown in a few areas and was washed away by an avalanche and rock slide in two places. With some scrambling, however, it was easy enough to get around these obstacles.
The further I progressed, the narrower the valley became and the Middle Fork picked up in ferocity as it cascaded down the valley floor. It was beautiful.
15.5 miles in, I reached the Kings and Palisades Creek junction. I safely forded Palisades Creek and took my first steps on the PCT/JMT. It felt great to be on well maintained trail. I felt good physically and cruised down trail. Though I had barely seen a soul so far and none in the last 24 hours, it wasn’t long before I was passing by people regularly on the PCT.
I remembered this part of the PCT by sight, even though it looked quite different in June 2017. Then the trail was completely flooded up to mid-shin and there were trout swimming down the trail in front of us! In the few spots there was dry ground, there was massive tree fall due to avalanches. What a difference a year makes.
I was debating the whole day on whether to go to Palisades Lake or not. It would make it a 20 mile day, and I wasn’t sure I was ready for that especially with 8 days of food still in my pack. At 18 miles in, I found myself sitting in the shade of a boulder feeling nauseous because I was over heating in the afternoon sun. It was only 5:00 pm, however, and still too early to stop, so I decided to wait until 6:00 pm and then set off to cover the last 2 miles to Palisades Lake.
As I started up the Golden Staircase, a famously long and steep series of switchbacks before Palisades Lake, I saw a NPS helicopter fly in and hover about a mile up the trail and lower something down. Curious, I asked a couple coming down what was happening. It turns out someone was suffering from altitude sickness and being airlifted out. I hope they are ok.
After a few short breaks and labored breathing, I made it up the Golden Staircase to my campsite near Palisades Lake just in time for sunset.
